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La danza de los Zancudos de Zaachila
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Fue de pura casualidad que durante un evento en temporada de Guelaguetza conocimos a alguien de Zaachila (población a 20 minutos de la ciudad de Oaxaca) y nos invitó a la celebración del día del Carmen. Ese día tuve que dar unas cuantas vueltas antes de encontrar la capilla donde iniciaría la calenda (procesión religiosa). Poco a poco se fue reuniendo la gente afuera para terminar de alistarse. Ahí se estaban los famosos Zancudos de Zaachila, lo primero que nos vino a la mente ¿cómo le hacen para no caerse? o mejor dicho, ¡que golpazo se han de dar si se caen de ahí! (tomando en cuenta que bailan en zancos de 2 m de altura).
Ahí estaba este nuevo amigo, lo saludamos, conversamos un poco y muchas preguntas comenzaron a surgir sobre esta tradicional danza, fue así que averiguando nos contaron su historia.
Historia
Esta danza data de hace más de cien años y fue en un cerro donde un anciano se encontró con la aparición de San Pedro y este le pidió que construyeran una iglesia con su nombre en el pueblo. Al no cumplirse su designio, San Pedro continuó apareciéndose, hasta que un día fue capturado por los lugareños y encerrado en un pequeño templo por la desconfianza que le tenían. Al día siguiente, cuando llegó la autoridad y abrió la puerta y el santo había desaparecido. Durante la tarde fue visto nuevamente conversando con el anciano. San Pedro le indicó que era enviado de Dios para proteger al pueblo. Afirmó que faltaban ocho días para su cumpleaños y le pidió que formaran parejas que se montaran sobre unos zancos y bailaran. Una semana después los danzantes con zancos hechos con estacas de carreta, acompañados de un tamborero y mujeres con velas y esencias de copal, llegaron a los pies del cerro donde una semana antes apareciera San Pedro para complacer los designios de éste. Allí encontraron su imagen que fue llevada adonde hoy se asienta el barrio, y encomendada al padre, quien inició la construcción del templo.
Descubre 25 paseos alrededor de la ciudad de Oaxaca que debes hacer dando clic aquí.
Ahora comprendíamos más sobre la fe y devoción con la que este pueblo realiza la danza en zancos, además que ellos comienzan a practicar desde muy chicos (12-14 años) nos comento otra persona, -¡Qué difícil ha de ser mantener el equilibrio para no caerse!- comenté, a lo que él me respondió, -Dependiendo la fe con la que baile el joven es la protección que su Santo le da-.
Ese día los acompañé recorriendo gran parte del pueblo y aún con la lluvia que agarró a todos por sorpresa, no pararon, incluso en un trayecto en el que se fue la luz, ya era tarde y así la calenda seguía. De pronto a unos 50 metros se escuchó un golpe y voces, muchos abandonaron la formación para ir a ayudar, era lo que temíamos, un danzante se había caído, algunos fueron a ayudarlo, se había golpeado fuerte pero afortunadamente no de gravedad, pasaron 20 minutos antes de que se reincorporara nuevamente, esta vez iba más despacio, el piso mojado no ayudaba.
Checamos el reloj, ya era tarde, era pasada la media noche y debía regresar a casas, en el trayecto pensaba sobre las fotos pero sobre todo la riqueza cultural de Oaxaca y sobre todo la fortuna de poder disfrutar y compartirlo con la gente que ve nuestras fotos y nos lee.
English version
I meet David while taking some photos during Guelaguetza season in Oaxaca City, he’s from Zaachila, not very far from there (20 minutes driving at the most). He told us about Carmen’s Virgin celebrations at his hometown and at the end, he invited us to do some photographs there as well.
The day came and my friend Gary and I drove to Zaachila, we got there but we got a little bit lost before we found the chapel where the procession was about to begin. There were the ‘Zancudos’, we’d seen them before but not while getting ready. The first thing that came to my mind was to think how do they manage it to keep the balance and don’t fall, or said in other words, how bad will it be if someone falls from that height (2 meters).
While beeing there we had a chance to talk to some locals and they told us more about this dance, they told us that it was originated in the San Pedro neighborhood over 100 years ago and it’s one of the few places the dance can still be found. The origin of the dance is in a promise the inhabitants of Zaachila made to Saint Peter. The story behind it states that an old man encountered an apparition of Saint Peter who asked the community to build a church in his name. The apparition appeared each day until it was captured by the local people and enclosed in a small church. Guards were posted at the entrance with rifles. However, the next day, it was discovered that the saint was no longer there, and he appeared again to the old man who had originally seen him and indicated that God had sent him to protect the village. Eight days remained until the feast of Saint Peter, and the saint asked that the villagers form pairs on stilts to dance. On the feast day, the men danced on stilts while the women surrounded them with candles and incense. The dancers arrived at the foot of a hill where an image of the saint was found, which was brought to the San Pedro neighborhood where a church was constructed for it.
Then I understood a little bit more about the faith, devotion, and practice of the people who do the dance, they begin at a young age (12-14yo). -It might be hard to dance and not fall, I said, then another person replayed me – It all depends on his faith because his favorite Saint is going to be the one who’s going protecting him.
It was getting dark and it suddenly started to rain, it was not a reason to stop, they kept dancing, even when there was a blackout, but then, it happened, we heard a noise and some dancers gathered at one point, it was one of them who felt, he hit hard on the floor and got some bruises but nothing major, 20 minutes later we got back into his position and they all started to dance again, this time more carefully, the road was still wet.
We check the time, it was late, I was past midnight and we had to drive back to our homes but we still had time to talk about the experience, the dance and photos on the road, we also mentioned about how lucky we are to live in this fascinating State with its huge cultural heritage and how much we like to share all these with the people that see our photos and reads this.
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